Tuesday, November 2, 2010

france - day 9

Today was going to be a long one and became even longer than anticipated, when Richard decided we needed to see the port city of Honfleur, even tho it wasn't on the official itinerary. It was a Sunday and the tourists were out in droves.

Our first stop was the marvelous abbey of Mont-St-Michel, one of the most enchanting sights in France. Surrounded by the seas at high tide, the island of Mont-Tombe (Tomb on the Hill) is connected to the mainland by a causeway. Lying strategically on the frontier between Brittany and Normandy, Mont-St-Michel grew from a humble 8th century oratory to become a Benedictine monastery that had its greatest influence in the 12th and 13th centuries.

Major engineering works are now in place to begin reversing the silting up of the sea around the island.


We began our climb up the pathway to the top, where the abbey occupies an impregnable position on the island. At this point, Larry and I went our separate ways. He went up (300+ stairsteps, which my knees couldn't take) and I went down, onto the Grande Rue, which was the pilgrims' route to the abbey gates.

The steeple can be seen for miles and miles:


Four bays of the Romanesque nave survive; three were pulled down in 1776, creating the West Terrace:


The cloisters, with their elegant columns in staggered rows, are a beautiful example of early 13th century Anglo-Norman style. The Fraternite of Jerusalem, a small monastic community, lives in the abbey and welcomes visitors.


Living atop a precipice long ago was not without its difficulties. Here is the "elevator" that brought supplies up to the top of the island:



Next up was a stop in Bayeux, famous for its 11th century tapestry justifying William the Conqueror's invasion of England in 1066. Bayeux was the first town to be liberated by the Allies in 1944 and was fortunate to escape war damage. 15th - 19th century buildings remain, including this charming mill:






230 feet long, the embroidered hanging was commissioned by Bishop Odo of Bayeux and offers insights into 11th-century life. The battle scenes are from the defeat of Harold, King of England, at the Battle of Hastings. The tapestry is valued as a work of art, a historical document and an entertaining read. This art history major remembers well seeing slides of the tapestry in a darkened classroom. Much more interesting to see the bright colors of the embroidery up close and personal:


Then it was on to Honfleur, a picturesque town at the mouth of the Seine River. A major defensive port in the 15th century, Honfleur became a center of artistic activity in the 19th century. Eugene Boudin, mentor of the Impressionist Claude Monet, was born in Honfleur, as were several other important figures in the arts community. Today Honfleur continues to be an arts colony, with many studios and shops lining the streets near the harbour.


Our final stop, before heading to our Deauville hotel, was Le Manoir d'Apreval in Pennedepie, just west of Honfleur. A family-owned estate surrounded by a magnificent apple orchard, the manoir is famous for its hard cider and Calvados, a potent (70% alcohol) apple brandy.


Seventeen different varieties of apples are assembled together on the estate, all completely different varieties of apples than are grown in New York State.




In an old restored press, the musts are gathered together to become cider, during which time the Pommeau (a less potent brandy) and Calvados are aged for up to 10 years in oak barrels.


Following a tasting of the Pommeau and Calvados, dinner was served before we headed off to our hotel, the famous Royal Barriere in Deauville. History awaits!





















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